Why Lisbon? Someone asked me. A decade or so back when I was in Paris, I decided to plan a trip to Lisbon on the whim. That plan did not see the light of the day. The light showed up in July 2024.
Cycling 20kms
I enjoy casual cycling. Instead of finding my own way in the “city of 7 hills”, booked this Airbnb experience. A Swiss of Nigerian origin making life in Lisboa, Taibat (loopitour.com) has crafted an unique cycling tour off the beaten track coupled with on-the-go candid photos/videos. We cycled 20kms starting from the meeting point in Rua de Macau to the Cruz Quebrada train station along the River Tagus passing by the Moorish Quarter, the Monument of the Discoveries, 25 April suspension bridge, Belem tower & few other landmarks. Taibat waved at many people along the way and chatted with a few. Even though my interactions with these people was brief & superficial, not rooted in meaningful relationships, I enjoyed the sense of connection & cherish the shared moments. Not to forget, the Portuguese Pastel de nata (egg tart) & Portotonic (white Port wine with tonic).
We could have kept going along the beautiful path away from the city. At one time, it hit me that we would have to turn around and ride back the entire way! The next moment I was relieved upon learning the option of taking the train back. Wow, the essence of a well-designed product is in the nuanced details & here was one.
Walking 35000 steps in 2 days
Lisbon’s terrain is hilly, with steep inclines around every other path. After cycling & lunch, I did the Alfama area walk with views of old Lisbon from Miradouro de Santa Luzia (Miradouro means viewpoint), walking up to Sao Jorge Castle and then down to <i don’t know where!>. Getting lost is a feature, not an aberration. The narrow streets are alive with non-stop entertainment- trams, buses, cafes, music & sea of people. Time lapse attempts to capture the cacophony.
The next day, Bairro Alto. Started by walking up next to Gloria Funicular, catching the view from Miradouro de Sao Pedro de Alcantara, meandering through the maze-like neighborhood, lunch at Sage Brunch, another viewpoint looking over the west side from Miradouro de Santa Catarina, Chiado area, stopping at one of the oldest book store Livraria Bertrand and ending at Brew for a few hoppy delights. Start 10am, End 1pm.
Pedestrian Circumnavigators
The exclusive group of individuals who have undertaken the remarkable challenge of walking the globe tread 40,000-60,000 steps a day. Wikipedia lists 15 people. World Runners Association (WRA) is the governing body & lists 10 rules.
1st time on Ryanair
For all the reasons imaginable, Ryanair is well known- from “pay to pee” to the CEO, Michael O’Leary calling a passenger “stupid” for not pre-printing the boarding pass. Here is a list of provocative statements that makes for a fun read. Despite controversies, the fact remains that Ryanair has enabled millions of people fly dirt cheap & inspiring new travel ideas with direct connections. For instance, Lisbon – Eindhoven, Netherlands a direct connection that made this trip possible.
The captain’s pre-landing announcement mentioned something about auto landing and asked to switch-off mobile phones. I did not grasp it well and neither could confirm from online sources. A little unsolved mystery remains.
Food
I could not resist the allure for Goan food after a week in Netherlands! Both dinners were Goan- Jesus e Goes (5/5) & Tentacoes de Goa (4.5/5). Food was equally good. Jesus e Goes was more personalized with generous pours of the house white wine from north Portugal. Lunch was in Sage Brunch (5/5), a chic hideaway in the quaint lanes of Bairro Alto towards Miradouro de Santa Catarina. Another forgettable lunch was at Baia dos Golfinhos (2.5/5) at the end of the cycling and before boarding the train at Cruz Quebrada station. Ginjinha cherry liqueur at the historic and crowded, A Ginjinha.
Football Fever
The evening I landed, it was the Euro 2024 semi-finals. Portugal vs France. After check-in at the hotel, I hopped a few street-side bars on Avenida da Liberdade boulevard (often referred to as Lisbon’s Champs-Elysees for its grandeur & historical significance). Sports, particularly religion sport like football, ignite a nation’s collective spirit. I was fortunate to witness the raw emotion, excitement, and sense of community.
Conclusion
I am surprised the number of well-travelled friends and colleagues including those from Europe who have not visited Lisbon. For people who enjoy a casual urban vibe with chatty people at prices lower than rest of western Europe, Lisbon is a place to be added to the itinerary. To me, Europe without Lisboa is India without Goa!
As a souvenir Taibat made this beautiful video: