Snowy Japanese Alps and Illuminated Tokyo

Since our first time living and travelling in Japan in 2007 / 2008, we have grabbed every opportunity to visit Japan. After our last trip to Hokkaido & Osaka in the autumn of 2023, this time it was the Japanese Alps and Tokyo in the winter. Same theme as the previous trip: new + nostalgia. New = Japanese Alps. Nostalgia = Tokyo (though Tokyo revealed its new side too). The dates spanned Christmas & New Year from 24-Dec to 5-Jan.

1. Feel Japan Day: Haneda Airport to Nagano City

• Landed in Haneda Airport @ 3.30pm. Bought Suica cards (prepaid & rechargeable card for local trains and buses excluding long distance trains, Shinkansen & inter-city buses)
• Train: Haneda Airport to Tokyo Station (Tokyo Monorail & Keihin-Tohoku Line)
• Shinkansen: Tokyo to Nagano City, Hokuriku Shinkansen (1hr 20mins), booked at the station upon arrival
• Check-in: Walk to Chisun Grand hotel (3 nights)

2. Rainy Day: Nagano

• Bus: Round trip from Nagano Station (East Exit) to Snow Monkey Park Bus Stop, Nagaden Bus. Bought the tickets at the office near the bus stop.
• Walk: 1.6 km from the bus stop to Jigokudani Monkey Park
• Due to the rain, we skipped Shibu Onsen & Zenkoji Temple

3. Ski Day: Hakuba

• First snowfall in Nagano City
• Bus: Nagano Station (East Exit) to Goryu Escal Plaza, Alpico Bus @ 8.05am (65 mins). Due to a long traffic jam caused by an accident, it took us double the time!
• Ski: Hakuba Goryu Snow Resort

4. Scenic Day: Nagano to Hida Takayama

• Check-out: Walk to Chisun Grand hotel
• Train: Nagano to Matsumoto, Shinano Line (50 mins), booked a day in advance
• Bus: Matsumoto to Takayama, Nohi Bus (2.5 hours), booked 4 weeks in advance
• Check-in: Wat Hotel & Spa Hida Takayama (3 nights)
• Walk: Takayama Old Town (a bit too commercialized and overrun with tourists)
• Relax: Onsen

5. Snow Day: Shirakawa-go

• Bus: Day trip from Takayama to Shirakawa-go & Ainokura, Nohi Bus (booked 6 weeks in advance)
• Relax: Onsen

6. Slow Day: Takayama

• Make: Sarubobo (Saru = monkey, Bobo = baby), Hida-Takayama’s good luck charm
• Walk: Discovered the highlight of Takayama: Higashiyama walking course. Lost in the back alleys of Takayama
• Relax: Onsen

7. Speed Day: Takayama to Tokyo

• Check-out: Wat Hotel & Spa Hida Takayama
• Train: Takayama to Nagoya by Wide View Hida Express (2.5 hrs), booked a day in advance
• Shinkansen: Nagoya to Tokyo Shinagawa, Tokaido Shinkansen (1.5 hrs), booked a day in advance
• Clear views of Fujisan (Mt Fuji) from Shinkansen
• Check-in: Section L Kuramae in Asakusa (6 nights)

8. New Year’s Eve

• Ginza: the polished vibes of Ginza. Itoya, the iconic 12 storey stationery store
• Shinjuku: the sensory intensity of Shinjuku. 3D cat billboard photo spot, alleys of Omoide Yokocho Memory Lane
• Night views from Tokyo Skytree
• Asakusa: Festivities in Senso-ji Temple. Gentle countdown led by the gathered crowd. Buddhist New Year tradition of Joya no Kane, 108 bell rings as the clock struck midnight & Skytree’s rotating display announced 2026.

9. Nostalgia Day

• Asakusa: Late morning walk, crepe, melon smoothie
• Revisited our house in Kamata, 18 years later!
• Shibuya: the hustle-bustle of Shibuya. Hachiko, Shibuya Crossing, Okonomiyaki
• Konbini run: quick trip to a 7-Eleven, Family Mart, Lawson and new kid in the block, My Basket

10. Another Nostalgia Day

• Hakone day trip using the Hakone Free Pass
  • Hakone Tozan Railway: fun mountain train that climbs steep grades built in 1919
  • Ropeway over Owakudani fumaroles (sulfurous hot springs and steam vents)
  • Kuro-tamago, black eggs boiled in the hot sulfur springs & views of Mt Fuji
  • Ferry on Lake Ashi
• First snowfall in Tokyo
• Konbini run

11. Enigmatic Day

• Teamlabs Borderless & the immersive tea experience
• Akasaka “Harry Potter” station
• Harajuku: Too crowded to find any signs of kawaii culture (Japanese culture of cuteness & charm)
• Tokyo Night & Light for “PAC-MAN eats Tokyo”
• Konbini run

12. Magic Day

• Disneysea never fails to wow
• Winter illuminations @ 2 Chome Marunouchi near Tokyo station
• Konbini run

13. Itte Kimasu Day

• Ittekimasu means “I am leaving but will return”

Conclusion

2007 was our first New Year’s Eve at Zojoji Temple in Tokyo. 18 years later, sharing the same experience with our daughter was priceless. Soaking in the onsen in Takayama each evening was definitely a highlight. Going back to the house we lived in during our formative years was surreal. Plus all the little quirks and delicious food.

Planning this trip took more effort than usual. Availabilities were limited, bookings needed to be done in advance, and snowy conditions added complexity to logistics. The additional effort was worth it—every day was an experience to remember.

If you are reading this, you know how to reach me. If not, twitter @rajspace